Closing time...

Last call, we spent some time at the beach and then walked down to old town one last time. Both of these events were not what they seemed.

The beach, I was led to the “clothing optional” beach by our kind representative in the hospitality desk. This caused my brother to say “oh my gawd” as we rounded the corner and were greeted by a topless young lady. This is much better than the tip Tree gave me when she tricked me into looking at the two nude 65 year old women. So very wrong!

Walking into town, my uncle told us that he walked into town the day prior, what must have meant to say was he walked to a town. After hoofing it for more than an hour in 85 degree heat and oppressive humidity Tree and I hopped on a bus and rode straight past old town. I really need to work on my grasp of the Croatian language, we would still be on that bus had Tree not recognized that we were getting further away from our destination.

Anyhow…

If you follow the "cold drinks" sign you end up in a bar with the best view -

The view in quesiton -

Sun down, must be time for dinner -

Tree has this setting on her camera that makes pictures look like an INXS video -

With that and 23 hours of air travel we are back home, thanks everyone for your comments and encouragement. Until 2011 this is our farewell to Croatia...

Dubrovnik

After a travel day we were relieved to land in Dubrovnik. After a quick breakfast and gelato for fuel we tackled the old city. The 2 KM walk around the wall took close to three hours but that included a pivo break and a few other pit stops along the way. This is the most well known tourist destination in all of Croatia and it does not disappoint.

There is not much I can say to add any color to the images, it is an amazing place!

Hilarity Ensues.

Second favorite exchange, while the Kraljevs were flying all over Croatia the Croffs rented a van and drove up the coast line to Dubrovnik. Our flights took close to twelve hours, and Croffs van ride took them four. To get from Zadar to Dubrovnik you actually have to pass through Bosnia. The conflicts between Croatians and Bosnians are well chronicled. Not knowing what to expect the Croffs were obviously relieved to be allowed to pass. I am relaying this second hand so I reserve the right to add dramatic effect.

Cousin Katie: Phew, looks and Uncle Matt and sees his fly is open. Hey you may want to zip that up tiger.
Uncle Matt: Wha, oh yeah. That was Plan B in case we were not able to get through that check point.

While you were sleeping

I know I said I would not post today but this is just too good to pass up. While Tree and I were sleeping in and eating gelato the rest of the clan went to Banj, this is where my grandfather was born. Banj is a very small city on the island of Pashman. Normally getting there is a logistical nightmare but Dad and Cyndi were able to transport the group with no trouble at all. Their hope was to take some photos, see the graveyard, and get back home in one piece. What they got was so much more.

Since that this is not my story to tell I will give you the cliff notes. A group of eleven Kraljev’s gets off a bus in Banj, see two older women (babas) and inquire if there are any Kraljev’s to be found. Turns out they are both Kraljev’s, and they take the clan to Josif Kraljev. Josif’s father was a first cousin of our grandfather, Zlatko. From here they spend the day eating, drinking, and laughing. Turns out you can’t hit a pitching wedge on Banj without hitting a Kraljev. Once again I am amazed by the hospitality and kindness of our new found family.

The Banj version of 411 -

Seriously, within an hour of landing they are eating and drinking with Kraljevs -



Visiting the house where my grandfather was born -

It just needs a few things... -

Some time later the family sat down for dinner -

Best of...

While the rest of the group is doing their best impersonation of planes, trains, and automobiles today Tree and I stayed behind to shop and eat gelato. Since I don’t have much to report today, or tomorrow for that matter I thought I would post some of my favorite pictures thus far. Tree has really uncovered a love for photography which has two benefits, the first being that she is taking some amazing pictures and the other being that I don’t have to carry the camera around. Bravo!

Tomorrow is a travel day so I will look forward to catching up with you in Dubrovnik on Monday.

A view of the sun rising over Iceland -

Couldn't sleep in Split so we woke up early enough to catch a local fisherman feeding the cats -

And another fisherman with the day's catch in Prvic -

This is how you tell time in Prvic, the bell tolls every hour, even through the night -

Sunset in Prvic -

A baba, sweetest ever -

Family bonding in Ante's couryard -

Kolonovich and Katie, new found drinking buddies -

My favorite shot from Plitvice -

The Kraljev's -

Plitvice National Park

Sorry I neglected to post last night, the combination of a long day and too much pivo would have made typing nearly impossible. Yesterday we boarded a bus to Plivtice National Park. While we were looking forward to touring the park we were none two excited for the two hour bus ride each way. Once we arrived we were struck by beauty like nothing we have ever seen. I will spare you any explanation of the photos as they pretty much speak for themselves.

Leaving Prvic, an afternoon in Zadar.

After some breakfast we packed our belongings and said goodbye to our new friends and family. Prior to the trip I thought of Prvic as a way to unwind and get me head straight for the rest of my time in Croatia. Without "much" to do and nowhere to go my expectations were few. What we found was a place of unparalleled beauty. With people of such warmth and kindness that I teared up as the ferry left the port. Not only was I sad to leave, which of course I was. I also realized there are so few moments in our lives that several things come together to create perfection, this was one of them. We arrived as tourists and left with family we did not know we had. I cannot wait to return.

Aunt Cyndi and Milena -

Ante Zanze -

After an amazing lunch our spirits improved and we headed down to old town in Zadar. Nearly 80% of Zadar was destroyed in World War II which you would never know from the look of it. Old Zadar is a gorgeous place where we were able to enjoy a great cappuccino, listen to the sea organ, and enjoy gelato by the sea. Tomorrow we have the Plivitce National Park, stay tuned.

St. Donatus Church -

Uncle Jim checking out the sea organ.

Day three, Prvic.

What an amazing day, some quick highlights.

We had a great breakfast followed by a trip in a kayak around the island. Close to five miles in total, my arms may never be the same. We got back just in time for lunch and then off to the Faust exhibit. We finished the afternoon at Ante Zanze’s home with more Rakkia, homemade doughnuts, Proseco, dried figs, and some laughs. We finished in time to watch the locals play balote, the Croatian version of bocce ball. Here is an exchange from that.

Cousin Greg: So what was the score of the game?
Local guy: We won, 16 points.
Cousin Greg: How many points did they have?
Local guy: 14 points.
Cousin Greg: So you kicked their ass, high five!

It is with a heavy heart that we leave Prvic, we have had such a wonderful time. For anyone looking to relax, to completely unwind, Prvic is the place for you. The Hotel Maestral is like nothing else. For $60 Euros a day you get a wonderful room, three meals of your choosing whenever you want them, and they even launder your clothes for you. All this with the most majestic atmosphere you can imagine.

The room, messy but you get the idea -

The owner Filip, thank you so much for everything -

Our cook Tomislav, some of the most amazing food I have ever had. This is coming from someone who lives to eat.

Mirjana, my new favorite cousin, she dropped the "we are French" bomb on me -

Cheers Filip and friends, we will be back.

This old house.

Second day in Prvic, a couple of thoughts and then I will begin my rant.

Started my day with a call to our daughter at 5:30 our time, she is doing well and we are so thankful for Ro-Ro and Julie’s care of her. My breakfast consisted of some of the most amazing bread, salami, and cheese that I have ever slammed down my cake gate. God bless Croatia. We all violated the 12:00 rule by partaking in some grass liquor chased with a Turkish style coffee. I didn’t know whether to pass our or run around the island. Later I chose “a”, a three hour nap.

Onto the story…. There has been a tale in our family for some time around the house that my grandmother was born in on Prvic. When we arrived yesterday we were asked why the Zanze’s from America never visit and what was the deal with the house? Turns out the house in question is directly behind our hotel and it is two steps away from collapsing onto itself. Sometime over breakfast we got the idea that we were going to buy this thing and restore it to glory, the ultimate fixer upper

Here is the house in question -

Collapsed roof, someone locked the doors and left 2 years ago and it has had not a visitor since -

So of course we climbed the gates to better assess the damage -

The view from the front porch is magnificent -

So after all this we find this is not the house at all, this house is owned by Zanze's but not our family. So close... actually Aunt Cindy may know who owns a share of the home. It obviously is not a cherished treasure, perhaps there is some way to make this dream come true.

Day two, Prvic.

After a restless night Tree and I woke at 4 am, by 6 we were walking down the pier in Split. Around noon we caught what may have been the worst bus ride in history. No AC + body odor + tight confines X curvy roads = near puke in my shoes. Somehow we persevered and caught the ferry from Sibenik to Prvic Luka via Vlaren. Once we arrived all the nausea from the bus ride just melted away. Take a look...

De-boating, is that a word, in Prvic Luka.

After unloading our bags we were served lunch, I could get used to this...

... And the main drag during rush hour.

More to come soon, Lako Noche.